![]() ![]() Mainly, the subpanel is used to provide additional circuit spaces and separate control and safety to the circuits. both of them control and protect the wired circuits against electric faults, electric shocks and surges. The purpose of the main panel and subpanel is the same i.e. Note that bonding in the subpanel is not required as the ground and neutral is already grounded in the main service panel. Keep in mind that the Neutral in the subpanel is only needed when there are 120V circuits, GFCI/AFCI outlets and breakers including 240V circuits. The subpanel is wired through a feeder to the main panel via two hot wires (Hot 1 and Hot 2) using two poles 240V breaker and a Ground wire. To wire a subpanel or main lug, It is very important to calculate the suitable size of subpanel for specific load points where the rated capacity of subpanel should not exceed the peak amount of power used by electrical appliances and any other connected load points to the subpanel e.g. barn, garage, workshop or any other part of building for specific applications. Generally, the subpanel is needed to be installed in a separate section of premises e.g. I met a woodworking pro with an impressive workshop and he said his shop is wired with 60 amps.Sizing the Suitable Capacity of a Subpanel or Main LugĪ subpanel or main lug (aka Remote Panel in NEC) is a smaller service panel installed downstream from the main breaker box or load center in the home. use one or two space saver breakers, instead of regular 2-pole ones for 220V, because I have now one space left, but need twoĪs for the 60amp feed to the sub-panel, I see no reason to go higher, unless welding is in the cards. 20amp breakers for 220v, instead of 15ampĢ. I installed the following outlets, each on a separate circuit:ġ10V, 15 Amp * 1 (lights and a quart heater)Īll wall mounted wires are in metal conduits, 1/2"ġ. All connections and wires are neatly run and clearly marked. Since stud spacing didn't work for me, I attached 1/2" plywood to the studs and the sub-panel to the plywood. The inspector told me 6/2 would have been just fine. It runs through a basement/garage wall, coming out just above the garage's foundation wall, and then, surface mounted to the panel which is mounted at a height specified by the book. The main feed wire to the sub-panel is armored 1/2 only because I had a deal I couldn't refuse. I bought a 100amp rated panel by Siemens, but the panel is fed by a 60amp breaker in the main panel. My scenario was nearly identical to John's. I am curious what sort of heater that you are going to use that takes a 20amp twist plug? Most of the shop heaters that I have seen take a 6-30R plug.#I checked the heater today and it is a 240v 20 amp rated at 4800 watts max. Still investigating this.īX you can strap straight to the wall. #I plan to get a permit and am currently reading the modified code book. An upgrade to 200 amp service is not an option at this time. ![]() I am fully aware of the known issues of aluminum wiring installs and have corrected many deficiancies over the years. ![]() All switches and plugs have been changed and I do retighten connections everytime the cover is off of the panel. #The panel is 100 amp and yes all of the original wiring is aluminum. I am curious what sort of heater that you are going to use that takes a 20amp twist plug? Most of the shop heaters that I have seen take a 6-30R plug. And you will need to read up on the thermal rating for the wire that you have to know what size conduit to use.īX you can strap straight to the wall. It is questionable if you are allowed to run PVC conduit on a connected garage. If you are surface mounting it, you will need to run it in conduit. You can run romex if you are putting it behind a stud wall. He is the one who will be either passing or failing your install, so it doesn't really matter what we on the forum think.Īs to your question. What is the size of that original panel? Are any of the connecting wires aluminium?Īt the least, I would not do anything without taking out a ESA permit, and then all these questions you should direct to the inspector as that is all covered with your permit. If you have that old of a house that the panel is breakers, then I would want to double check many other items with that main. I went with a certified electrician as I upgraded the main panel in the house from 100 to 200amps. ![]()
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